A Lot of Sleeping & Some Sightseeing

Swimming with the seals on Montague Island yesterday was amazing! Or at least, that’s what I was told by others.

After waking up in the middle of the night with some stomach bug or food poisoning (still not sure what it was), I was so disappointed when 10:30 rolled around and I had to pass on the day’s activities. After Sharon dropped off pills and electrolytes for “those affected,” Margo and I dozed in and out of sleep for the next 8 hours while everyone else except Kate was off exploring Montague Island. What a bummer.

Fortunately though, after laying in bed for over 30 hours, we felt well enough to make it to today’s activities! Turns out, everyone except three people and the bus driver experienced some sort of sickness in the past 48 hours. Yay Bermagui!

Despite these slightly minor setbacks, today may have made up for it.

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I become mesmerized as I watch the waves roll in, crash and splash against the rocks, then get pulled and sucked back out to sea like a giant vacuum. As I crouch down close to the rocks to take a time-lapse photo, I’m reminded of the ocean’s power as my phone and I are engulfed by a surprise wave. My hair still smells like saltwater, many hours after leaving the bay.

As I sit by the Blue Pool later this evening, I’m once again reminded of the beauty and power of the ocean. The water surges through pathways amongst the rocks, splashing anything in its way. The sky is like cotton candy, and mist forms along the distant shores. Words and pictures can’t even come close to capturing these moments. I am so lucky to be here and to have gone on this trip. I’m in Australia, for goodness sake, and I’m basically depressed about going back to Sydney. What an incredible road trip with an amazing group of people.

Eden Passes the Taste Test

Despite burning my entire tongue yesterday to the point where eating is barely enjoyable, the chicken and tomato roll at A Taste of Eden was one of the best things I’ve ever consumed. In fact, for the brief five minutes between the time when the waitress set the plate down on the table in front of me and when it was scraped clean, I completely forgot about my tongue burn as I devoured the beyond satisfactory sandwich.

The bread was out of this world: buttery and soft, but not to the point of being soggy. The chicken had been grilled to perfection in chili and sweet soy sauce, topped with a mixture of arugula and baby spinach as well as juicy tomato slices. On top of these ingredients was an intricate lattice grid of seeded mustard mayo sauce that added a creamy twist to the dish, as well as a dash or two of chili powder. I mean, it was “out of this world” good.

About 11 years ago, Matthew and Fiona Allen, locals both now in their 40s, opened their little restaurant on the wharf. Despite changes in the food industry, the couple’s restaurant is still going strong.

A Taste of Eden makes their meals with local produce and allows people to bring their own beverages as part of their dining experience, in addition to offering a take-away service option.

The fish used in the dishes comes from the boats in the wharf, but under law, they must first be processed in the co-op across the street, the last one currently remaining in Eden.

Another change that the restaurant has had to undergo since its original opening includes rules that prevent them from making their own mayo and other items on premises.  According to Fiona, about six months ago there were regulations passed by authorities that the restrict the restaurant, as well as others, from using raw eggs in their ingredients. Because of this, they now have to buy the delicious mustard mayo from an outside source and then “add things to it to make it our own,” says Fiona.

They try to make as many of their food items in house though, including their yummy, fresh-baked bread. The menu also features prices suitable for all visitors, ranging from a list of $10 meals to more expensive and inclusive seafood platters to share for $100.

Fiona happily talks to me about their brightly colored, nautical eatery nestled in the wharf as she pats the little boy standing beside her, her grandson, on the head, giggles, and says, “He makes the meanest coffee.” As I leave, she even invites me to come back tomorrow for a morning coffee before I move on to the next town on our itinerary. Perhaps I will.

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The Tourist Path Less Traveled By

For me, there’s no better way to get to know a new place than exploring it by foot. When traveling, wake up early and go for a quick jog. Hike one afternoon. See things that an average tourist can’t see just by driving down the main street of town.

The Bundian Way Trail stretches from just north of Eden, down and across to the Snowy Mountains. The Eden Local Aboriginal Land Council has been working to improve this trail, as it aims to provide employment opportunities for Aboriginal people as well as protect the heritage route, rich with history and nature. If you’re looking for a way to explore Eden by foot, I highly recommend this 45-minute hike.

“The views are lovely, and you go past the mussel farm,” says Tricia Lamacraft, 67, as she enthusiastically suggests the trail to my friends and me.

The newly renovated section of the Bundian Way in Eden features reddish sand paths, steps lining the steeper hills, as well as lookout areas and benches for when you need a quick rest or if you just want to sit and take it all in. Weaving along the coast, you can walk across quiet beaches and listen to the water gently lapping the shore. Look down at your feet and among the washed up seaweed you’ll find shells colored purple and orange, decorated with unique ridges and swirls.

If you walk up the beach toward the grass, you’ll see children running around the little quaint playground, while their father cooks on the nearby grill, smoke whirling upward into the chilly air. Farther down the shore, their mother walks hand-in-hand with the youngest child, smiling and pointing out objects in the sand.

For those feeling adventurous, climb up the rocks to experience the most breathtaking of views of Twofold Bay. If you gaze out at the water, you can see odd-looking things floating in the water. This is the mussel farm. Underneath each of these are lines of mussels that will later supply food to the town of Eden.

Eden’s isolation yet independence as a town offers a distinctive landscape with great activities, such as the Bundian Trail Way, for visitors seeking a more active, hands-on experience. Although you may be exhausted by the end, the trail is well worth it, and great healthy exercise too.

 

 

Rise ‘n’ Shine in Broulee

You wouldn’t believe it, but there we were. A group of college kids, up at 6:30 am, walking in the cold dark.

Despite the 50-degree weather, excitement buzzed through the early morning air. We sat on our towels in the sand, bundled up in sweatshirts, scarves and sweatpants, as the anticipation built. The clouds reflected a brilliant pink, as the horizon began to burn orange. Within 30 minutes, the sun peaked its head over the distant mountains, its warmth spreading smiles amongst us.

What a beautiful way to start the day.

You’ve probably never heard of Broulee. In fact, it doesn’t even have enough residents to be considered an actual town. Rather, it is a community of people, a place where elderly migrate after retirement and families enjoy the serenity of the quiet area nestled on the southern coast of New South Wales.

Some may consider Broulee as one of those places with no attractions, just another blue or green sign you simply pass on your way to bigger and better destinations. I, however, beg to differ.

Driving through the rural streets of Broulee, you can see vehicles pulled over on the side of the road, dogs sitting outside the cars, waiting for children wrapped up in warm jackets to crawl down from the backseat. Two women jog by in a tank top and shorts, their sweat glistening in the rising sun’s rays. Others are tugging on their wetsuits as they carry their surfboards through the sandy roadside paths toward the shore.

By the time it’s 9 am, nearly everyone in the town is up and taking full advantage of the beautiful day ahead, even in the winter months. With its small yet active community and sheltered beaches, Broulee is a thumbnail on your map you may want to consider taking a pit stop at. Even if it is just for a sunrise or sunset.

A Very Filling First Day

 

First stop: Kiama! As I creep down to sit on the edge of the rocky cliffs, I feel at peace with the world. The turquoise blue water crashes up against the rocks, as the light wind sweeps thin wisps of hair from my face. Behind me, I can hear the sound of the blowhole as it spews into the salty air. Here I am, sitting on the ocean’s edge, on the other side of the world.

 

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We turn around the bend and that’s when I see it. After driving through scenery consisting of nothing but trees for about 20 minutes, there is finally a building along the road up ahead. “East Lynne Store” reads the sign out front.

The bus pulls over in front of the service station and we climb out, anxious to see if this store will live up to the reputation our trip supervisor has given it. I am the first to walk in.

It is quiet, but the air is filled with rich aromas. I try to peel my eyes away from the display of pies and rolls to my left as I approach the counter to talk to the friendly-looking woman standing behind it…

Sharon’s eyes light up and a humble smile appears on her face as she asks me how I found out about her store and why I wanted to write about the little pie shop. “Because I’ve heard it’s amazing,” I respond simply.

Now owned by Sharon Wilkins and her husband, Dean, the store’s first origins are kind of a mystery.

It is thought to have began in the 1930s, but there are myths that it used to be somewhere up the road before relocating to its current address. It also burnt down in 1950, before being revived and becoming the shop it now is, known for its variety of house made pies and other treats.

Thank goodness, for our tastebuds’ sake, it was revitalized.

Originally, the store only served one type of pie: apple. The pies were made from scratch, using apples grown on the land behind the building.

Although there is no longer an apple orchard, the tradition of house made pies has continued and expanded. The store uses fresh ingredients to make all of their menu items on premises. Apple pie is their signature pie, but “all the kinds are getting so popular. We now have custard tart and vanilla slice, as well as items such as lemon meringue and carrot cake,” says Sharon.

Sharon and I chat for a while, as she tells me about her husband, who enjoys riding around on his motorcycle, and how the East Lynne Store has even became involved in his hobby.

They call it “The Pie Ride.” Traditionally, almost every weekend groups of bikers meet in Milton and travel around the state, stopping at the East Lynne Store for a mouth-watering lunch.

Even people from farther away like to indulge in the store’s treats. “People come from Sydney and Wollongong and all over the state to enjoy our pies,” says Sharon. In fact, they sell frozen pies that may also be ordered in bulk if called in ahead of time.

“It’s nice to sell a popular product that everyone loves and enjoys,” says Sharon, as she looks up at me and smiles.

20 minutes later and only $5 poorer, I had purchased my first pie ( I decided to go with apple) and carried it onto the bus as I waved goodbye to Sharon. As soon as I sat down in the uncomfortable blue patterned seats, I took the pie out of the brown paper bag.

I couldn’t stop smelling it. I just kept holding the pie below my nose and breathing in the sweet, doughy scent while its heat warmed my hands. When I finally took the first bite, it tasted just as good as it smelled, like fresh apples wrapped up in a shortbread cookie, topped with crystals of sugar.

I now know why apple is their most popular type of pie. I ate it all.